Before he was aware that fashion design was a viable career option, Rogers experimented with garbage bags, creating folds on a dress form as he tried to decipher the construction process. (“Little did I know at the time that those folds were called darts,” the now 25-year-old says, laughing.) Shoe-string budget be damned, Rogers brought his first collection to life using bargain-basement dead-stock fabrics that he whipped up into bicolored suits and voluminous eveningwear confections. Exaggerated hats from Brooklyn-based milliner Malchijah Hats made the Southern gospel aesthetic sing.
In London, a melting pot of references informed the work of Supriya Lele, who charmed buyers and editors with her artful blending of British and Indian staples for spring. (In just its second season, her work is already sold at Browns and Opening Ceremony.) Trench coats deftly draped with saris represented the identity struggles that Lele experienced growing up as the child of Indian immigrants in the West Midlands.